What I Want You To Do If Your Car Breaks Down
What I Want You To Do If Your Car Breaks Down
When a car fails on the road, panic and guesswork make things worse. I maintain and repair vehicles for a living, and this is the exact method I use and recommend. I’m writing to you personally so you can keep calm, protect yourself and your passengers, and make smart decisions.
First priority: make the situation safe
Indicate and move left as soon as you notice trouble. Do not brake suddenly unless you have to. Choose a straight, visible shoulder or a breakdown bay if there is one.
Stop with the front wheels turned slightly away from traffic. If someone bumps your car, it will roll away from the lane, not into it.
Put the transmission in Park (or Neutral with the handbrake on). Switch hazard lights on.
Exit on the side away from passing traffic. If the driver’s side is exposed, get out through the passenger door.
Stand well clear of the lane. If there is a barrier, wait behind it. Children and pets stay with you, not in front of the car.
If you can feel the wind from passing vehicles, you are too close.
Make yourself visible
Keep hazards on.
Raise the bonnet. It tells other drivers you will not be moving.
Place a warning triangle where approaching drivers will first see it—not next to your bumper. On highways, place it 50–150 metres behind your car; in town, place it closer.
At night or in heavy rain, switch your cabin light on to create a clear silhouette.
Take a short, honest look at what happened
Before touching anything, take ten seconds to notice the basics. I run through this simple list:
Smell: fuel, hot coolant, burning oil, burning plastic, or an electrical smell.
Warning lights: check engine, oil pressure, battery/charging, temperature, brake, transmission.
Behaviour: did you lose power, did the engine surge or misfire, did the car shudder, or did it free-rev?
Leaks: look for drips or puddles and their colour (clear water, green/pink coolant, black oil, rainbow fuel).
Noises and smoke: squeal, clunk, grinding, belt slapping; smoke colour (white, blue, black).
These notes help you explain the problem later and stop you from guessing.
Two absolute rules that save engines
Overheating: if the temperature climbs or you see steam, switch the engine off. Do not open the radiator cap when hot. Let the engine cool completely before you check the coolant.
Oil pressure: if the red oil light appears or you hear knocking or sharp ticking, stop the engine immediately. Do not restart until it is diagnosed.
Quick checks you can do—only if it is safe to do so
Battery terminals: look for loose clamps or corrosion. If you have a 10 mm spanner, gently tighten the clamps. A loose negative terminal can cause random stalls and no-starts.
Serpentine (drive) belt: with the engine off, check if the belt is present and intact. If it is missing or shredded, arrange a tow.
Fluids:
Oil: use the dipstick; the level should be between the marks and not milky.
Coolant: look only at the overflow bottle while hot; never open the cap on a hot radiator.
Transmission (if your car has a dipstick): level and smell; burnt fluid suggests a problem.
Fuel reality check: be honest about your last fill. Gauges fail more often than people admit. On diesels, running dry usually means you will need a proper prime.
Air intake: make sure the intake hose is still clamped to the throttle body or turbo inlet. A loose hose after the airbox can cause limp mode or a stall.
Fuses: lift the engine-bay fuse lid and check the main ones marked IGN/ECM/EFI/FUEL. Replace like-for-like only.
Tyres: if it felt like a blowout, check sidewalls and tread. Change a tyre only if you are well clear of traffic.
If you find a serious issue—missing belt, oil warning, or active overheating—do not attempt to drive. Organise a tow.
Common scenarios and the likely path forward
Sudden loss of power (won’t rev): could be limp mode from a sensor fault, a boost hose off, a clogged fuel filter, or an air leak. Switch off for sixty seconds and restart. If power returns but the light stays on, drive gently off the road and arrange diagnostics.
Cranks but will not start: listen for the fuel pump priming. Check the relevant fuses. Petrol engines often fail at the crank sensor or coil packs. Diesels that have run low may have air in the line—do not keep cranking until the battery dies.
Single click, no crank: likely a weak battery or poor terminal contact. Turn accessories off and try again. A jump pack may get you moving, but find the actual cause promptly.
Overheating or steam: stop, let it cool, then investigate. Do not “nurse it to the next town.” That is how head gaskets fail.
Strong vibration, grinding, or sudden heavy steering: stop immediately. You may have a failing wheel bearing, suspension problem, or a snapped belt. Towing is the safe choice.
Soft brake pedal: stop safely. If the pedal sinks after pumping, arrange a tow. Do not attempt to continue.
What to say when you call for help
Have the following ready:
Your exact location (kilometre marker, landmark, or a map share).
Vehicle make, model, year, and registration.
The key symptoms you observed.
Any safety concerns (tight shoulder, curve, night conditions, passengers).
Your preferred destination (home, your workshop, or the nearest town).
A clear way to say it:
“I’m on [road name], about [kilometre/landmark]. The car is a [year make model, rego]. I lost power and it will not restart. No overheating, no oil warning, a quarter tank of fuel. I am on the left shoulder with hazards and the bonnet raised. I would like a tow to [destination].”
What I keep in my breakdown kit (and what I suggest you carry)
Warning triangle or LED beacon
High-visibility vest and gloves
Portable air inflator and tyre gauge
Jump pack or jumper leads
Small tool roll (10–14 mm spanners, screwdrivers, pliers)
Cable ties and duct tape
Spare serpentine belt for your engine code
Assorted fuses (mini and micro)
Headlamp or torch
Drinking water and sunscreen
Phone power bank
Notepad and marker
Emergency blanket
Optional but valuable: a basic OBD-II scanner, wheel chocks, and a small dry chemical extinguisher.
Petrol and diesel: what differs when they break down
Diesel: running dry usually requires a proper prime; air leaks on the suction side cause stalls and no-starts. Water-in-fuel warnings must be taken seriously.
Petrol: coil packs and crank sensors commonly cause intermittent no-starts when hot. Aging fuel pumps often go from “hard start” to “no start.”
Towing choices
All-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive vehicles should go on a flatbed unless the driveline can be fully isolated.
Automatic transmissions should not be towed long distances with the drive wheels on the road.
If your car is very low or has body kits, tell the dispatcher so the right truck turns up.
How I deal with a workshop after the tow
Go in with facts, not guesses. I hand over my notes and describe exactly what I felt and saw. If I have codes from a basic OBD reader, I include them. I ask for a diagnostic plan, a price limit for the initial diagnosis, and I approve only what is necessary to restore safe operation. Optional repairs can wait for a separate booking.
A simple maintenance rhythm that prevents most breakdowns
Every three months—or every 5,000 to 7,500 kilometres—do the following:
Check engine oil, coolant overflow, and brake fluid level.
Inspect belts and hoses for cracks and swelling.
Clean and tighten battery terminals; replace batteries around the 4–5 year mark.
Set tyre pressures and inspect tread, including the spare.
Check air and cabin filters, especially if you drive on dusty roads.
Run a quick OBD scan to catch early faults.
Restock any tools or consumables you used.
Regional realities I plan for
On long, hot stretches I carry extra water and keep idling to a minimum. On dusty roads I check the airbox seal and intake boots because fine dust ruins sensors and turbos. At dawn and dusk I expect animals on the road; if I hit something, I recheck the cooling system, radiator, belts, and the fan for damage before I attempt to continue.
What I will and will not fix at the roadside
Reasonable to attempt: tightening a loose battery clamp, replacing a fuse like-for-like, refitting a popped intake hose, changing a tyre if there is a safe space, and clearing a non-critical code to reach town.
Not safe to attempt on the roadside: working on a hot cooling system, replacing a serpentine belt in a tight engine bay near traffic, any brake hydraulic repair, and anything involving fuel leaks or exposed wiring.
Keep two people informed
I make two calls: the first to roadside assistance with my location and plan, the second to my destination or a family member. If the wait will be long, I share my live location. If my phone battery is low, I disable non-essential apps.
A short checklist you can keep on your phone
Safety
Indicate, move left, choose a visible shoulder
Hazards on, wheels turned away from traffic
Bonnet up; triangle or beacon placed
Everyone exits on the safe side and waits well off the road
Assess
Smell, lights, behaviour, leaks, noises/smoke
Quick checks (only if safe)
Battery clamps tight, no heavy corrosion
Drive belt present and intact
Oil level acceptable; no red oil light
Coolant checked only at overflow bottle while hot
Fuel level considered honestly
Intake hose attached and clamped
Fuses (EFI/ECM/FUEL/IGN) intact
Tyre condition if puncture suspected
Call
Location, vehicle details, symptoms, safety notes, destination
While you wait
Stay clear of traffic, doors locked, cabin light on at night, conserve phone battery
Final note
Breakdowns are rarely about luck. A calm process, a small kit, and respect for oil pressure and temperature protect your vehicle and your time. Follow the steps above and you will turn a bad day into a controlled delay rather than a costly failure.
